In this weekend's Wine column, Jay McInerney explores the "indie movement" in Champagne, managing to track down Anselme Selosse and talk to Pierre Larmandier along the way: "The Indie Innovator of Champagne Country"
"Mr. Larmandier's Champagnes display a distinct mineral character suggestive of the chalk underlying the vineyards of Côte des Blancs. During my visit, Mr. Selosse described this particular aspect of the best wines of the region, "the true wines of terroir" as "l'eau de roche"—the water of the rock. The wines of both growers, as well as others like Pierre Gimonnet, Pierre Péters and Agrapart & Fils, have a signature that's more stony than fruity. The idea that grapes can express the character of underlying bedrock is unproven, though it's an article of faith in Burgundy, as it is with Mssrs. Selosse and Larmandier."